Prague: A City of History, Charm & Family Roots
Prague is one of Europe's most popular travel destinations, and after visiting, it's easy to see why. This beautiful, historic city is full of energy, with stunning architecture, charming streets, and something to discover around every corner. One of our favorite parts of visiting Prague was simply wandering through the city without a plan. Every turn led us to another hidden courtyard, historic building, or lively square, and it never disappointed. While Prague itself was incredible, the most meaningful part of our trip happened two hours out of the city, see where we went.
How We Got There
We traveled to Prague from Český Krumlov. Our plan was to walk to the train station and catch the train that stopped just up the hill from where we were staying. But if there’s one thing travel has taught us, it’s that no matter how carefully you plan, there’s usually a curveball waiting to make things a little more interesting.
When we arrived, we learned that the tracks were under construction, and trains were no longer servicing that station. Thankfully, a shuttle bus was running to the next station, allowing us to easily connect with our train to Prague. Once we arrived, we walked to our hotel and immediately fell in love with the city's beautiful historic charm.
Where We Stayed
Our hotel in Prague was incredible from start to finish. I can't recommend the Iron Gate Hotel enough. It was within walking distance of Old Town Square and many of Prague's most iconic sights, making it the perfect home base for exploring the city. Each morning we enjoyed a complimentary breakfast buffet, and our room looked like something straight out of a fairytale, with elegant historic details that made our stay feel extra special.
What We Did
After getting settled into our hotel, we were eager to stretch our legs and start exploring. Our first stop was Prague's famous Astronomical Clock. As we approached, we noticed a large crowd gathered in the square, all waiting for something to happen. Naturally, we joined in, curious to see what all the anticipation was about. Right on the hour, the centuries-old clock came to life with its famous procession of moving figures. It was fun to experience such an iconic Prague tradition firsthand - and while the procession itself was over in a matter of seconds, we were glad we stuck around to see it. If we’re being honest, though, it was a little anticlimactic after all the buildup we had created in our heads!
The clock sits in the heart of Old Town Square, surrounded by restaurants, shops, and a seasonal market that was fun to browse. Once we'd worked up an appetite, we stopped at Švejk for our first Czech meal—beef goulash with dumplings, a must-try while visiting Prague.
With full stomachs, we wandered across the Charles Bridge as the sun began to set. Watching the city from the river, with Prague Castle in the distance and musicians filling the bridge with music, was the perfect introduction to the city.
Before calling it a night, there was one more stop to make: dessert. We couldn't leave without trying a trdelník. Some people call it a tourist trap, but I don't care—it was absolutely delicious. And being in my first trimester with our second baby, I happily embraced every sweet treat with zero regrets.
Day One
After fueling up at the hotel's incredible breakfast buffet, we headed out with no real agenda other than to explore.
One of my favorite things about European cities is that you can stumble upon beautiful churches around nearly every corner. We stepped inside Památná deska Františka Skoriny, taking a few quiet moments to admire the incredible architecture and craftsmanship.
From there, we followed the river until we reached Loď Pivovar, a brewery housed on a boat. It was the perfect place to relax for a bit, enjoy a snack, and watch the boats drift by.
Our next stop was the Jan Žižka Monument, where we were rewarded with sweeping views overlooking Prague. We spent so much time taking in the scenery that we nearly lost track of time before our afternoon cooking class.
One of the highlights of our entire trip was our cooking class through Good Mood Food. It was just us and another couple from Chicago, making for a fun, intimate experience. We learned to prepare several traditional Czech dishes, including roasted chicken, cabbage salad, potato pancakes, and more. Everything was incredibly delicious, and they were wonderfully accommodating of my pregnancy dietary restrictions.
Ending the day by learning about Czech culture through its food was one of our favorite memories from Prague.
Day Two
This was the day I had been looking forward to most.
Before our trip, Jeff uncovered the birth certificate of my great-great-great-grandfather. Using historical records, he traced where my ancestor was born, baptized, and where his family lived in the 1800s. We couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit those places while we were in the Czech Republic.
After picking up a rental car at the airport, we made our way to Kutná Hora for lunch and some sightseeing. We visited the stunning St. Barbara's Church, perched high above the valley, before wandering through the charming streets of town.
From there, we continued to Proseč, the town where my ancestor likely spent much of his life. There was even a chance the local church was where he had been baptized.
The town felt wonderfully quiet and authentic. Most businesses appeared to close by late afternoon, and very few people spoke English. While searching for something to commemorate the day, we found the only general store still open and bought a small nail set—an unexpected but memorable first souvenir.
Just a few minutes outside town was Bor u Skutče, where my ancestor's family home once stood.
Today, the land is part of a working farm complete with sheep, chickens, and a friendly dog. Standing where generations of my family once lived was an emotional experience I never expected to have.
Near the entrance, we found a tree and carefully carved our family initials into it as a small reminder of our visit. We didn't linger too long since we were almost certainly on private property, but it was incredibly meaningful simply to stand where my family's story began.
That evening, we returned to Prague, dropped off the rental car, and took the metro back into Old Town. After dinner at another traditional Czech restaurant, we celebrated the day with dessert back at our hotel.
Apparently, baby still wanted something sweet.
Day Three
This was the only morning of our trip that required an alarm clock.
We grabbed pastries from the hotel lobby before heading to the Clementinum, where we picked up tickets for one of the day's guided tours. Since our tour wasn't until later, we had time to enjoy a proper breakfast at Café Louvre.
The café is full of old-world charm and has welcomed famous historical figures, like Franz Kafka and Albert Einstein, for more than a century. Sitting there almost felt like stepping back in time.
Our Klementinum tour was fascinating. We climbed the Astronomical Tower, visited the breathtaking Baroque Library, and learned how astronomers once used the movement of the sun to tell time and signal the city by ringing the bell. The library alone houses more than 27,000 books, including an Egyptian scroll dating back to around A.D. 300.
By lunchtime, we had worked up quite an appetite. Hidden inside a quiet courtyard, we discovered Roesel, one of those restaurants you almost miss if you aren't looking for it. Everything on the menu sounded amazing, so naturally, we ordered more than we probably needed.
After lunch, we made our way uphill to Prague Castle. Although we chose not to tour the interior—we had already visited our fair share of castles and churches on this trip—the castle grounds alone were worth the visit.
Later that afternoon, we browsed a local market in search of a souvenir to bring home for our daughter before setting off on one final food mission: finding a koláč.
It was every bit as good as we'd hoped.
As the sun began to set over Prague, we finished our final evening with dinner at Azra, enjoying smoked salmon, roasted cauliflower, falafel, and one last leisurely meal before making the slow, pregnancy-approved waddle back to the hotel.
Heading Home
Our last morning was bittersweet.
Part of us wanted just one more day to wander Prague's beautiful streets, but we were equally excited to get home and squeeze our daughter.
After one final breakfast at the hotel, we packed our suitcases—now noticeably heavier with souvenirs and laundry—and headed to the airport.
Prague completely lived up to its reputation. Its history, architecture, and endless charm made it one of our favorite European cities.
But what I'll remember most isn't a famous landmark or a beautiful view. It was standing in the tiny Czech village where my family story began. Being able to connect with my ancestors in such a personal way made this trip unforgettable.
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