Český Krumlov: A Fairytale Town in the Czech Republic

When we choose our destinations, we always make room for at least one hidden gem. While we love exploring the popular, bustling cities, it’s often the lesser-known places that leave the biggest impression.

That’s why we added Český Krumlov to our itinerary—and it quickly became our favorite stop. This charming medieval town dates back to the mid-13th century and is home to a stunning castle that’s still protected by live bears. With its winding cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and storybook atmosphere, it felt like stepping back in time.

How We Got There

We came to Český Krumlov from Vienna and debated several transportation options before deciding on a shuttle service. While it was a bit more expensive, the door-to-door convenience between our hotels was absolutely worth it. Not having to drag our large suitcases through train stations and across town made the journey so much easier.

An added bonus? We got to sit back and enjoy the stunning countryside views along the way—something we would have missed otherwise.

Tip: If you're prone to motion sickness, come prepared. The drive is incredibly scenic, but the winding roads and constant turns can be tough on sensitive stomachs. Packing some Dramamine might save the day!

Where We Stayed

I truly cannot say enough good things about Penzion Onyx. This charming seven-room bed and breakfast is run by two sisters who make you feel like family from the moment you arrive. It has all the warmth and comfort of a home away from home.

Each morning started with a delicious homemade breakfast, and the location was perfect—just a short walk from downtown and all the sights of Český Krumlov.

And as if that wasn't enough, there's an adorable resident Shiba Inu who is always ready to greet guests and happily accept a few cuddles. It was one of those places that made us feel sad to leave.

What We Did

We had one goal in Český Krumlov: explore.

One of the best things about this town is that you don't need a packed itinerary to enjoy it. The historic center is incredibly walkable, making it easy to wander the cobblestone streets, cross charming bridges, and discover hidden corners at your own pace.

We arrived with no schedule, no reservations, and no specific sights we felt obligated to see—just a desire to wander and see where the day took us. Some of our favorite travel moments happen this way, and Český Krumlov was the perfect place for it.

Here's what we discovered along the way:

We started by wandering through the grounds of Český Krumlov Castle, one of the largest castle complexes in Central Europe—and yes, it's still protected by live bears. From there, we strolled through the beautiful castle gardens and stopped to see the unique revolving auditorium tucked away among the trees.

Later, we made our way down to the river for dinner on the patio at Leylaria's Restaurant. The riverside views were hard to beat and made for a relaxing place to enjoy a meal. Tip: If you're sensitive to smoke, keep in mind that outdoor seating areas commonly allow smoking.

After dinner, we walked through more of the town and made our way up to the Church of St. Vitus, whose towering Gothic architecture can be seen from all over town. As the evening continued, we stopped for a drink at Zapa Bar, a cozy cellar bar that was once an alchemist's laboratory in the 1400s.

To end the night, we took a peaceful walk back to our hotel along the river, enjoying the lights reflecting on the water and soaking in the fairytale charm of Český Krumlov after dark.

Day Two

Our second day took us beyond Český Krumlov for a fairytale-worthy castle excursion. We began with a bus ride to Budweis, followed by a short taxi ride to Hluboká nad Vltavou, home to one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic.

The highlight of the day was a guided tour of the State Chateau of Hluboká. The castle is absolutely breathtaking and looks like something straight out of a storybook. Originally dating back to the 13th century, it was rebuilt several times between the 1400s and 1800s. Its final transformation in the 19th century was inspired by Windsor Castle after the duke and duchess attended the coronation of Queen Victoria.

One thing we weren't prepared for was how cold it was inside! If you're planning a visit, bringing an extra layer is definitely a good idea. Photography isn't permitted inside the castle in order to help preserve its historic interiors and artifacts, but the details were unforgettable.

The castle is filled with fascinating treasures and unique stories. One of my favorite details was learning that the duchess purchased stained-glass windows from Swiss churches that were being demolished, preserving them for future generations. She also had a passion for collecting unusual furniture. One ornate dresser featured carved legs resembling sea dragons. Our guide explained that these carvings were actually intended to depict dolphins—an animal many European craftsmen had never seen in person and only knew through descriptions and illustrations. It was such a small detail, but it offered a fascinating glimpse into how people viewed the world centuries ago.

After our tour, we headed to Restaurace V Podzámčí for lunch. Jeff ordered a fish sampler, while I went with fried cheese and french fries because, at 15 weeks pregnant, you eat what sounds good and don't ask questions.

We spent some time wandering through town, browsing the charming shops and admiring the beautiful buildings before catching a taxi back to the bus station and heading to Český Krumlov.

For dinner, we ate at Krčma Šatlava, a unique cellar restaurant where meats are cooked over an open wood fire. The atmosphere alone makes it worth a visit.

Before calling it a night, we made one final stop at FAJR 99 for drinks and enjoyed a leisurely walk back to our bed and breakfast, soaking in the magic of the town one last time.

Day Three

Our final morning in Český Krumlov started on the sweetest note. We were the last two guests staying at the bed and breakfast, so our hosts asked what time we would like breakfast and surprised us with homemade kolaches. It was the perfect send-off and one more reminder of how special our stay had been.

After checking out, the owners kindly held our luggage so we could squeeze in a few more adventures before leaving town. First up was climbing the Castle Tower, which rewarded us with incredible views over the red rooftops, winding river, and the surrounding countryside.

We also toured the Castle Museum, which gave us a deeper appreciation for the rich history of both the town and the castle complex that has overlooked Český Krumlov for centuries. The exhibits provided fascinating insight into the castle's former residents, architecture, and the role it played in shaping the region.

One of the most memorable artifacts was a skeleton believed to be that of St. Reparatus. While other locations also claim to possess the remains of this saint, making its true identity uncertain, it was still incredibly interesting to see such a unique piece of history up close. Whether authentic or not, it added another layer of intrigue to our visit and made for a memorable museum experience.

With a little time left before our departure, we wandered through town one last time, popping into shops and eventually finding the perfect souvenir—a beautiful painting to bring a piece of Český Krumlov home with us.

Before heading off to our next destination, we enjoyed one final meal at The Old Inn and soaked in the last moments of this fairytale town that completely stole our hearts.

On Our Way Out Of Town

After lunch, we made our way back to the bed and breakfast to pick up our bags before walking to the train station. Originally, there was supposed to be a direct train from Český Krumlov to Prague—our next stop—but construction had other plans.

Instead, we were rerouted and took a bus to Budweis before connecting to a train bound for Prague. At first, the language barrier made the situation a little confusing. We weren't entirely sure if the station employees were trying to help us or if we were misunderstanding what was happening. Thankfully, they were genuinely helping us navigate the detour, and everything worked out exactly as it should.

Travel doesn't always go according to plan, but sometimes those unexpected moments become part of the adventure. Before long, we were settled into our train seats and on our way to Prague, excited to see what our next destination had in store.